You land at Narita. You’re hungry. You see a conveyor belt sushi place with glowing plastic plates in the window. That’s fine. But you will miss the real Japan if that’s all you eat. This guide names the seven dishes you need to try, exactly where to find them, and the five etiquette rules that separate a polite tourist from a clueless one. No vague “respect the culture” advice. Specifics only.
7 Dishes You Must Eat (And Where to Find Them)
Japan has more Michelin stars than any country on earth. But the best food isn’t in a three-star joint. It’s in a 10-seat counter in a back alley. Here’s the hit list.
Tonkatsu at Maisen (Tokyo)
Pork cutlet, panko-breaded, deep-fried. Sounds simple. Maisen in Omotesando uses Iberico pork from Kagoshima. The set meal costs ¥2,200 ($15). The fat renders perfectly. The cabbage salad is refillable. You pour the sauce yourself from a ceramic pot. Do not drown it. Dip, don’t soak.
Okonomiyaki at Mizuno (Osaka)
Osaka’s signature savory pancake. Mizuno in Dotonbori has been doing it since 1945. You sit at a counter, they cook it on a hot steel plate in front of you. ¥1,500 ($10). The batter includes cabbage, pork, squid, and tempura scraps. They flip it with two spatulas. Watch. Learn. Eat it with a metal spatula straight off the grill.
Takoyaki at Aizuya (Osaka)
Octopus balls. Sounds weird. Tastes incredible. Aizuya uses a secret dashi broth in the batter. ¥600 for 8 pieces ($4). The outside is crispy, the inside is molten. Let them cool for 90 seconds or you will burn your tongue. I have made this mistake twice.
Soba at Honmura An (Tokyo)
Buckwheat noodles, hand-made daily. Honmura An in Roppongi grinds its own buckwheat. A bowl of zaru soba (cold noodles with dipping sauce) costs ¥1,800 ($12). Slurp loudly. It’s not rude. It shows the chef you appreciate the aroma. The dipping sauce is soy-based with mirin and bonito. Dip only half the noodles. You don’t want it too salty.
Ramen at Ichiran (Multiple Locations)
Tonkotsu ramen in a solo booth. You fill out a ticket order form: richness of broth, firmness of noodles, amount of garlic. ¥980 ($7). You sit in a cubicle facing a curtain. The chef slides your bowl through. You eat alone, in silence, focused. This is not lonely. This is efficient. The broth simmers for 18 hours.
Unagi at Nodaiwa (Tokyo)
Grilled eel. Nodaiwa in Higashi-Azabu has been open since 1850. A full eel over rice costs ¥4,800 ($32). The eel is split, skewered, steamed, then grilled over charcoal. The sauce is brushed on three times. No shortcuts. Eat it with a sprinkle of sansho pepper.
Matcha Parfait at Tsujiri (Kyoto)
Not a dish. A dessert. But essential. Tsujiri in Kyoto uses Uji matcha from their own farm. The parfait layers matcha ice cream, mochi, red bean paste, and cornflakes. ¥1,200 ($8). The bitterness of the matcha cuts the sweetness of the bean paste. Eat it with the long spoon they give you. Don’t ask for a fork.
The 5 Etiquette Rules Most Guides Get Wrong
Most travel blogs tell you “bow when you enter a restaurant.” That’s useless. Here’s what actually matters.
Rule 1: Never Stick Chopsticks Vertically Into Rice
This is how rice is offered to the dead at funerals. If you do this at a dinner table, you will get stares. Place them horizontally on the chopstick rest (hashioki). If no rest is provided, use the paper wrapper to make one. I fold mine into a small triangle.
Rule 2: Do Not Pass Food Chopstick-to-Chopstick
Another funeral ritual. At a cremation, family members pass the bones of the deceased using chopsticks. Doing this with food is a major faux pas. If you want to share a piece of sushi, place it on the other person’s plate. Do not hand it directly.
Rule 3: Say “Gochisousama Deshita” After Every Meal
It means “thank you for the feast.” Say it to the staff when you leave. Not “thank you” in English. Use the Japanese phrase. It shows you made an effort. The staff will remember you. I’ve gotten free matcha shots for doing this.
Rule 4: Do Not Tip. Ever.
Japan has no tipping culture. If you leave money on the table, the staff will chase you down the street to return it. The service charge is included in the bill. If you want to show appreciation, say “gochisousama deshita” with a small bow. That’s your tip.
Rule 5: Eat Sushi in One Bite
Do not bite a piece of sushi in half. It falls apart. The chef shaped it for one mouthful. Pick it up with your fingers (yes, fingers are fine for nigiri). Dip the fish side into the soy sauce, not the rice side. The rice will soak up too much sauce and fall apart.
How to Order at an Izakaya (Japanese Pub) Without Panicking
An izakaya is a casual bar that serves small plates. You go with friends. You order multiple rounds. Here’s the system.
You get a cold oshibori (hand towel). Use it to wipe your hands. Do not wipe your face. You get a small dish of edamame or pickles as an appetizer. This is not free. You will be charged ¥300-500 ($2-3). That’s normal.
Drink order first: beer (“biiru”) or sake. Then food. Order 2-3 dishes per round. Pace yourself. Popular izakaya chains include Torikizoku (skewers, ¥350 each) and Watami (variety, ¥500-800 per dish). Both have English menus on iPads.
When you’re done, say “o-kaikei kudasai” (check please). They bring the bill to your table. You pay at the register near the exit. Do not leave cash on the table.
Conveyor Belt Sushi: The Unwritten Rules
Kaiten-zushi (conveyor belt sushi) is cheap and fast. But there are rules.
| Do | Don’t |
|---|---|
| Order from the tablet at your seat | Don’t grab plates from the belt with your hands |
| Use the tongs provided for shared plates | Don’t put empty plates back on the belt |
| Drink green tea from the powder dispenser at your table | Don’t take wasabi from the communal tub with your chopsticks |
| Stack your empty plates at the edge of the counter | Don’t leave uneaten rice on the plate |
Popular chains: Kura Sushi (¥100 per plate, uses AI to monitor freshness) and Sushiro (¥120 per plate, has seasonal specials). Both have English tablets. Kura Sushi has a game: every 5 plates, you get a chance to win a gacha toy. It’s dumb. I love it.
Street Food vs. Sit-Down: Which Is Better for First-Timers?
Street food wins for variety and speed. Sit-down wins for quality and experience. Here’s the breakdown.
Street food (under ¥500 per item): Takoyaki in Osaka. Yakitori skewers in Tokyo’s Memory Lane. Taiyaki (fish-shaped cake with red bean filling) in Asakusa. You eat while walking. No waiting. No tipping. No etiquette stress.
Sit-down (¥1,000-3,000 per meal): Ramen shops. Sushi counters. Tonkatsu restaurants. You get a seat. You get water without asking. You take your time. The food is prepared to order, not sitting under a heat lamp.
My recommendation: Do street food for lunch (Osaka’s Dotonbori is the best street food district in Japan). Do sit-down for dinner. You get the energy of the streets and the quality of a proper meal.
What to Do If You Make a Mistake
You will. I did. Everyone does.
If you accidentally stick your chopsticks in your rice, just take them out and apologize quietly. The Japanese word is “sumimasen” (excuse me). You don’t need a long speech. The staff has seen it a hundred times.
If you forget to say “gochisousama deshita,” don’t run back. Just remember next time. The staff cares more about your general behavior than one forgotten phrase.
If you tip, and the staff chases you, take the money back and say “gomen nasai” (I’m sorry). They will smile and bow. You will be fine.
The One Rule That Overrides All Others
Be observant. Watch what locals do. If you’re standing at a ramen shop and everyone is eating in silence, don’t start a loud conversation. If you’re at a sushi counter and the chef places a piece in front of you, eat it immediately. Don’t take a photo first. The fish is at its peak temperature for about 15 seconds.
Japan rewards attention. The person who notices the small details — the angle of the chopsticks, the timing of the bite, the phrase at the door — will have a better trip. Not because they’re following rules. Because they’re showing respect. And that respect gets reciprocated with better service, better food, and better memories.